Umbria

Umbrian towns are incredibly old, perched on breeze-stroked hills and floating on a sea of peaceful olive groves. The region has far more to offer than just the world-famous towns of Assisi, Perugia, Gubbio, Spoleto, Todi, Orvieto, Spello and Montefalco, gems of unchallenged beauty; off the beaten track, dwell an unnumbered amount of equally charming old villages and small hill-towns.

Not much is said about Umbria: a small region rarely showing off in glamorous magazines featuring showgirls and football players. Maybe, this is part of the reason why Umbria still keeps, unadulterated, a mystic and serene halo, left out of time.

Umbria is the land of Saints, soaked into a sense of mystic that breaks in the skin and fills the spirit with joy, the same joy pervading S. Francis' wonderful Canticle of All Creatures.

Farming heritage still remains well visible, here, in the green heart of Italy; the country is alive and offers tasty, genuine products, laid on the tables of the many restaurants, inns, taverns, markets and ancient village festivals.

Umbria is a land of magic, an enchanting place where to settle or, simply, where to spend some time for vacations. It is a land of hills, woods, vineyards and olive groves, a land where the wind whispers through the leaves, a land of lakes, silence, starry nights, good food and excellent wine, art, culture, history, a land of ancient traditions and simplicity. Umbria cannot just be described in few words.

Are we biased? Perhaps we are, nonetheless Umbria is beautiful!

With the arrival of the Etruscans, the indigenous Umbrians relinquished much of their broad territory and retreated to various central valleys and plains. The two peoples cooperated and, many centuries later, put up a united front against Rome. The Etruscans built many roads and cleared the swamps and marshlands. They produced exquisite art works and jewelry, and their tombs and “cities of the dead” (necropolis) have survived across the centuries. They established autonomous city states in Umbria, and their presence is still visible in many Umbrian cities, particularly Orvieto, Perugia, and Città della Pieve.

Eventually, the increasing might of Rome brought about a rapid decline of the Etruscan civilization, and at the battle of Sentino in 295 BC, all of Umbria fell under the control of Rome. Many Umbrian cities were converted to colonies, and in 90 BC, the Umbrian people were granted the full status of Roman citizenship. Roman rule brought to Umbria a long period of relative peace and increased cultural and economic prosperity.

The collapse of the Roman Empire left Umbria defenseless against the “Barbarian hordes.” The ensuing struggle between Barbarians and Byzantines left a power vacuum that Christianity began filling. By the 4th century, twenty-one distinct dioceses existed throughout Umbria, and the bishops became the cultural and spiritual figureheads of the region. A brief period of calm preceded the arrival of the Longobards, who took possession of large parts of eastern Umbria and established the Duchy of Spoleto. The Duchy achieved a large degree of autonomy, and its prosperity ensured that it survived well beyond the end of Longobard rule.

With the fall of the empire of Charlemagne, Rome and the Church consolidated their position, formally declaring all of Umbria to be part of the Papal state. The region flourished, and there were increases in both prosperity and population. The continued history of Umbria was marked by internal conflicts and political sparring, alongside steady economic, artistic, and spiritual growth. The region was a center of learning, courtesy of numerous Benedictine and Franciscan monasteries, and the University of Perugia was established in 1308.

The twentieth century saw Umbria embracing the Industrial Revolution, with Todi being dubbed the “Manchester of Italy.” World War 2 left the area heavily damaged, and extensive urban reconstruction was undertaken. Today, Umbria has become an increasingly popular tourist destination.

What can we say about Umbrian cooking, other than that's really excellent. Wherever you might go, village festivals (sagras), simple trattoria's or fine restaurants, you will undoubtedly taste purely simple and delicious products. Products which come mainly from own vegetable gardens and the meat is quite often the meat of the restaurant owner or from one of his friends. Click on the links in the text and you will be immediately redirected to the relevant websites with specific details.

Food

Some typical Umbrian products: extra vergine olive oil, black and white truffle, porcini mushrooms, good quality wines, lentils, saffron from Città della Pieve, pici pasta and a lot of roasted high quality meat. Don't miss the experience of going to a village festival (sagra): any one you might decide to go, from the wild boar festival to the onion one, you will taste for sure typical Umbrian products in their original context.

Olive oil

Umbria is one of the world's best producing regions of extra vergine olive oil. Since no production tastes the same, along one of the many itineraries you will undoubtedly find your own favourite producer.

Wine

A separate chapter has to be dedicated to the wine routes, ways to go along by car, motorbike, bike or by foot among the sweet Umbrian hills, with visits to the wine cellars:

La Strada del Sagrantino

Since centuries, one of the most precious Italian vine is cultivated in the nearby of Montefalco: the Sagrantino. Less expensive, but also high quality is the Rosso di Montefalco. 27 footpaths available in the area and many cantina's open for tastings.

La Strada del Vino dei Colli del Trasimeno

5 itineraries winding around Lake Trasimeno, among woods, abbeys and good wine.

La Strada dei Vini Etrusco Romana

Trip within one of the oldest wine territories in Umbria, in between Orvieto and Amelia. You will have to taste one of the most fine white wines: Orvieto Classico.

It leaves without saying that the so close neighbouring province of Siena in Tuscany hosts a couple of the best valued wines in the world: Rosso and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano as well as Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino.

Call me to plan your trip :) I am going there in June!