Orvieto............to visit and to drink!

Orvieto is a city and comune in Province of Terni, southwestern Umbria, Italy situated on the flat summit of a large butte of volcanic tuff. The site of the city is among the most dramatic in Europe, rising above the almost-vertical faces of tuff cliffs that are completed by defensive walls built of the same stone called Tufa.

The ancient city (urbs vetus in Latin, whence "Orvieto"), populated since Etruscan times, has usually been associated with Etruscan Velzna, but some modern scholars differ. Orvieto was certainly a major centre of Etruscan civilization; the archaeological museum (Museo Claudio Faina e Museo Civico) houses some of the Etruscan artefacts that have been recovered in the immediate neighbourhood. 

An interesting survival that might show the complexity of ethnic relations in ancient Italy and how such relations could be peaceful, is the inscription on a tomb in the Orvieto Cannicella necropolis: mi aviles katacinas, "I am of Avile Katacina", with an Etruscan-Latin first name (Aulus) and a family name that is believed to be of Celtic ("Catacos") origin.

Orvieto was annexed by Rome in the third century BC. After the collapse of the Roman Empire its defensible site gained new importance: the episcopal seat was transferred from Bolsena, and the city was held by Goths and by Lombards before its self-governing commune was established in the tenth century, in which consuls governed under a feudal oath of fealty to the bishop. Orvieto's relationship to the papacy has been a close one; in the tenth century Pope Benedict VII visited the city of Orvieto with his nephew, Filippo Alberici, who later settled there and became Consul of the city-state in 1016.

Orvieto, sitting on its impregnable rock controlling the road between Florence and Rome where it crossed the Chiana, was a large town: its population numbered about 30,000 at the end of the 13th century. Its municipal institutions already recognized in a papal bull of 1157, from 1201 Orvieto governed itself through a podestà, who was as often as not the bishop, however, acting in concert with a military governor, the "captain of the people". In the 13th century bitter feuds divided the city, which was at the apogée of its wealth but found itself often at odds with the papacy, even under interdict. Pope Urban IV stayed at Orvieto in 1262-1264.

Some of the families traditionally associated with major roles in Orvieto’s history are: Monaldeschi, Filippeschi, Alberici and Gualterio, of whom only the Alberici and the Gualterio have survived to the present day.

The city became one of the major cultural centers of its time when Thomas Aquinas taught at the studium there. A small university (now part of the University of Perugia), had its origins in a studium generale that was granted to the city by Pope Gregory XI in 1736. After teaching in Orvieto Aquinas was called to Rome in 1265 to serve as papal theologian to the newly elected Pope Clement IV, and as Regent master of the Santa Sabina studium provinciale, the forerunner of the Pontifical University of Saint Thomas Aquinas, Angelicum.

The territory of Orvieto was under papal control long before it was officially added to the Papal States (various dates are quoted); it remained a papal possession until 1860, when it was annexed to unified Italy.

Nevertheless, while visiting this beautiful town don't forget to taste the amazing local wine also called Orvieto.

White Orvieto is composed primarily of Grechetto and Trebbiano and a blend of Malvasia, Drupeggio, Verdello and Canaiolo bianco grapes. Grechetto is valued for the fruitiness and weight that it brings to the wine; some of the most highly rated examples of Orvieto have a high concentration of Grechetto. The wine today is radically different from the historical sweet Orvieto, with off-dry and sweet wines accounting for less than five percent of total production. In addition to the traditional grape varieties listed, some Orvieto producers have begun experimenting with non-DOC Vino da Tavola wines made from Riesling and Sauvignon blanc.

According to Joseph Bastianich and David Lynch, the Orvieto wine world tends to be divided into two camps: estates which make traditional neutral and Trebbiano-dominated wines, and estates which take advantage of the liberal DOC blending policy and use as much of other permitted grapes as possible. Under the Orvieto DOC regulations, wines may contain between 40% to 60% Trebbiano Toscano, 15% to 25% Verdello, and up to 20% maximum of Grechetto, Canaiolo Bianco (Drupeggio) and/or Malvasia Toscana for the remainder.

Umbria

Umbrian towns are incredibly old, perched on breeze-stroked hills and floating on a sea of peaceful olive groves. The region has far more to offer than just the world-famous towns of Assisi, Perugia, Gubbio, Spoleto, Todi, Orvieto, Spello and Montefalco, gems of unchallenged beauty; off the beaten track, dwell an unnumbered amount of equally charming old villages and small hill-towns.

Not much is said about Umbria: a small region rarely showing off in glamorous magazines featuring showgirls and football players. Maybe, this is part of the reason why Umbria still keeps, unadulterated, a mystic and serene halo, left out of time.

Umbria is the land of Saints, soaked into a sense of mystic that breaks in the skin and fills the spirit with joy, the same joy pervading S. Francis' wonderful Canticle of All Creatures.

Farming heritage still remains well visible, here, in the green heart of Italy; the country is alive and offers tasty, genuine products, laid on the tables of the many restaurants, inns, taverns, markets and ancient village festivals.

Umbria is a land of magic, an enchanting place where to settle or, simply, where to spend some time for vacations. It is a land of hills, woods, vineyards and olive groves, a land where the wind whispers through the leaves, a land of lakes, silence, starry nights, good food and excellent wine, art, culture, history, a land of ancient traditions and simplicity. Umbria cannot just be described in few words.

Are we biased? Perhaps we are, nonetheless Umbria is beautiful!

With the arrival of the Etruscans, the indigenous Umbrians relinquished much of their broad territory and retreated to various central valleys and plains. The two peoples cooperated and, many centuries later, put up a united front against Rome. The Etruscans built many roads and cleared the swamps and marshlands. They produced exquisite art works and jewelry, and their tombs and “cities of the dead” (necropolis) have survived across the centuries. They established autonomous city states in Umbria, and their presence is still visible in many Umbrian cities, particularly Orvieto, Perugia, and Città della Pieve.

Eventually, the increasing might of Rome brought about a rapid decline of the Etruscan civilization, and at the battle of Sentino in 295 BC, all of Umbria fell under the control of Rome. Many Umbrian cities were converted to colonies, and in 90 BC, the Umbrian people were granted the full status of Roman citizenship. Roman rule brought to Umbria a long period of relative peace and increased cultural and economic prosperity.

The collapse of the Roman Empire left Umbria defenseless against the “Barbarian hordes.” The ensuing struggle between Barbarians and Byzantines left a power vacuum that Christianity began filling. By the 4th century, twenty-one distinct dioceses existed throughout Umbria, and the bishops became the cultural and spiritual figureheads of the region. A brief period of calm preceded the arrival of the Longobards, who took possession of large parts of eastern Umbria and established the Duchy of Spoleto. The Duchy achieved a large degree of autonomy, and its prosperity ensured that it survived well beyond the end of Longobard rule.

With the fall of the empire of Charlemagne, Rome and the Church consolidated their position, formally declaring all of Umbria to be part of the Papal state. The region flourished, and there were increases in both prosperity and population. The continued history of Umbria was marked by internal conflicts and political sparring, alongside steady economic, artistic, and spiritual growth. The region was a center of learning, courtesy of numerous Benedictine and Franciscan monasteries, and the University of Perugia was established in 1308.

The twentieth century saw Umbria embracing the Industrial Revolution, with Todi being dubbed the “Manchester of Italy.” World War 2 left the area heavily damaged, and extensive urban reconstruction was undertaken. Today, Umbria has become an increasingly popular tourist destination.

What can we say about Umbrian cooking, other than that's really excellent. Wherever you might go, village festivals (sagras), simple trattoria's or fine restaurants, you will undoubtedly taste purely simple and delicious products. Products which come mainly from own vegetable gardens and the meat is quite often the meat of the restaurant owner or from one of his friends. Click on the links in the text and you will be immediately redirected to the relevant websites with specific details.

Food

Some typical Umbrian products: extra vergine olive oil, black and white truffle, porcini mushrooms, good quality wines, lentils, saffron from Città della Pieve, pici pasta and a lot of roasted high quality meat. Don't miss the experience of going to a village festival (sagra): any one you might decide to go, from the wild boar festival to the onion one, you will taste for sure typical Umbrian products in their original context.

Olive oil

Umbria is one of the world's best producing regions of extra vergine olive oil. Since no production tastes the same, along one of the many itineraries you will undoubtedly find your own favourite producer.

Wine

A separate chapter has to be dedicated to the wine routes, ways to go along by car, motorbike, bike or by foot among the sweet Umbrian hills, with visits to the wine cellars:

La Strada del Sagrantino

Since centuries, one of the most precious Italian vine is cultivated in the nearby of Montefalco: the Sagrantino. Less expensive, but also high quality is the Rosso di Montefalco. 27 footpaths available in the area and many cantina's open for tastings.

La Strada del Vino dei Colli del Trasimeno

5 itineraries winding around Lake Trasimeno, among woods, abbeys and good wine.

La Strada dei Vini Etrusco Romana

Trip within one of the oldest wine territories in Umbria, in between Orvieto and Amelia. You will have to taste one of the most fine white wines: Orvieto Classico.

It leaves without saying that the so close neighbouring province of Siena in Tuscany hosts a couple of the best valued wines in the world: Rosso and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano as well as Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino.

Call me to plan your trip :) I am going there in June!

Pompei and Pizza

Pompeii is famous for being the "city that disappeared". On the 24th of August, 79 A.D., volcanic ash spewed violently from Mt. Vesuvius, covering the towns of Pompeii and nearby Herculaneum. An earthquake in 62 was a warning that Vesuvius could come to life, but Romans did not understand it. As far as they knew, Vesuvius was a dead mountain.

The residents were still rebuilding from the earthquake damage when Vesuvius awakened in such a terrible and destructive manner. The volcano erupted on a hot summer day, first flinging hot stones down onto Pompeii, then raining burning ash that didn’t stop coming until it covered everything.

The Roman towns in the Bay of Naples were buried in lava and forgotten for more than 1600 years. Another town grew up over Herculaneum, while vines and grass covered Pompeii.

This beautiful part of Italy with its mild climate and lovely beaches was repopulated, the volcano forgotten, and once again became home to the wealthy. Its land, enriched by the volcanic ash, again yielded fruit and grazing land. Lovely villas again dotted the hillsides.

Herculaneum was rediscovered in 1738 underneath a solidified layer of mud 26 feet thick. Ten years later, searchers dug on a hill known to local people as "la civita" ("the city") and discovered the remains of another buried city. An inscription was discovered that gave us the name of this place: Pompeii.

Because Pompeii was frozen in time, its excavation lets us see many details of daily life. The artifacts of life – dishes and cooking implements, a petrified loaf of bread, jewelry, coins --- show us how they lived. Their homes have been carefully unburied, and the beautful tiles and the art work painted and created in mosaic on the walls and floors are again visible. Their public buildings – the macellum, the temples, the baths – stand again in the open air for tourist and researcher to behold.

And, of course, the people are here too. The ash that filled their homes and streets covered their bodies and left molds in the petrified ash. By filling these cavities with plaster, archeologists have made casts of their bodies where they lay in their last moments. Many were clutching their valuables. Some families were found together. Many were found trying to flee the city, but trapped and unable to escape their fate on that terrible August day. Their pets are here too, entombed in ash with their owners.

The excavations at Pompeii and Herculaneum took place over many years and continue to this day. In the eighteenth century, Europe became infatuated with the discoveries at Pompeii which helped inspire a cultural movement of philosophy, art, architecture, literature, and even fashion. The movement, called Neoclassic, had people seeking out everything Roman, imitating the luxurious way of life revealed by the uncovering of Pompeii.

After visiting Pompei, carry on and drive to Vico Equense for an amazing Pizza experience..............Gigino, Università della Pizza, very very very worth it :)

Contact me for further info.

Prosecco.....it's summer time!

Prosecco is an Italian sparkling wine; generally a Dry or Extra Dry ; normally made from Glera ("Prosecco") grapes. DOC prosecco is produced in the regions of Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia in Italy, and traditionally mainly in the areas near Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, in the hills north of Treviso.

Prosecco is known as the main ingredient of the Bellini cocktail and has more recently become popular as a less expensive substitute for Champagne.

In 1754, we find the word Prosecco in the book "Il roccolo Ditirambo", written by Aureliano Acanti: ‘And now I would like to wet my mouth with that Prosecco with its apple bouquet’.

Up until the 1960s, Prosecco sparkling wine was generally rather sweet and barely distinguishable from the Asti wine produced in Piedmont. Since then, production techniques have improved, leading to the high-quality dry wines produced today. According to a 2008 New York Times report, Prosecco has sharply risen in popularity in markets outside Italy, with global sales growing by double-digit percentages since 1998, aided also by its comparatively low price. It was introduced into the mainstream US market in 2000 by Mionetto, now the largest importer of Prosecco, who also reported an "incredible growth trend" in 2008.

Until the 2008 vintage Prosecco was protected as a DOC within Italy, as Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, Prosecco di Conegliano and Prosecco di Valdobbiadene. From 2009, this has been promoted to DOCG status. Further to protect the name, an association of traditional Prosecco growers is advocating a protected designation of origin status for Northern Italian Prosecco under European law. Prosecco is, according to an order of the Italian Minister of Agriculture dated 17 July 2009 since 1 January 2010 not the name of a grape variety any more (now to be called Glera), but exclusively a geographical indication. This was confirmed by EG-Regulation Nr. 1166/2009 of 30 November 2009.

In 1754, we find the word Prosecco in the book "Il roccolo Ditirambo", written by Aureliano Acanti: ‘And now I would like to wet my mouth with that Prosecco with its apple bouquet’.

In Italy, Prosecco is enjoyed as a wine for every occasion. Outside Italy, it is most often drunk as an aperitif, much like Champagne. Like other sparkling wines, Prosecco is served chilled.

Unlike Champagne, Prosecco does not ferment in the bottle and grows stale with time. It should be drunk as young as possible and preferably within three years of its vintage, although high-quality Prosecco can be aged for up to seven years.

Compared to other sparkling wines, Prosecco is low in alcohol, about 11 to 12 percent by volume. The flavor of Prosecco has been described as intensely aromatic and crisp, bringing to mind yellow apple, pear, white peach and apricot. Unlike Champagne, appreciated for its rich taste and complex secondary aromas, most Prosecco variants have intense primary aromas and are meant to taste fresh, light and comparatively simple.

Most commonly Prosecco is served unmixed, but it also appears in several mixed drinks. It was the original main ingredient in the Bellini cocktail and in the Spritz cocktail, and it can also replace Champagne in other cocktails such as the Mimosa. With vodka and lemon sorbet, Prosecco is also an ingredient of the Italian mixed drink Sgroppino.

Come and join us for an amazing aperitivo in the sun tonight :)