Wednesday 12 June 2013

The East coast of Sicily


The east coast Ionian Rivieria, Etna, Taormina and 

the bay of Naxos



The Ionian Riviera, running up the east coast of Sicily from the bustling lava-stone city of Catania through a series of charming fishing villages and beaches to the enchanting town of Taormina, is certainly one of Sicily’s most intriguing areas. The entire coastline is dominated by the magnificence of Mount Etna, whose presence has shaped the entire area both geologically and historically from time immemorial.


Nature, food and wine
Mount Etna is undisputed king of the area, and hiking on its slopes is an unforgettable experience at any time of year. In the winter and spring, excellent skiing is possible and the upper slopes of Europe's highest volcano are rarely without snow. The towns and villages that dot the flanks of Etna, all built in lava stone, are well worth stopping off at for a stroll or a spot of lunch in a local trattoria. North of Taormina, running up to Messina, are the Peloritani mountains, home to millennial villages, deep valleys and stunning views.


The east coast Ionian Riviera has some of Sicily's most picturesque pebbly and sandy beaches including those of Isola Bella, Mazzaro', Giardini Naxos and Letojanni (below Taormina).


The area around Mount Etna is famed for its mushrooms, sausage and blood oranges, whereas in Catania you should try the Pasta alla Norma (Giuseppe Bellini was born there), arancini (deep-fried rice balls filled with meat sauce or mozzarella and ham), ice cream and granite (originally made with snow from Mount Etna). Vineyards cover the lower fertile slopes of "A Muntagna", as the locals call their volcano, and the wine produced, using local grape varieties such as Nerello Mascalese, is generally of excellent qualtiy.


History and Monuments
Greeks first landed in Sicily at Giardini Naxos below Taormina and during the following half century colonisers from various mother cities founded settlements at Catania, Megara Hyblea, Syracuse and Gela before pushing west to Agrigento and Selinunte.



The seventeenth century provided two defining events, first in 1669 with the eruption that engulfed Catania in lava and then with the earthquake of 1693 which destroyed swathes of Catania, Syracuse and the smaller centres of Noto, Ragusa, Modica, Caltagirone and Scicli, killing around five percent of the population of Sicily in the process. The eighteenth century rebuilding of these areas is a delight for anyone who finds perfection in baroque architecture.



Catania, with its vibrant markets, restaurants and bars (and more baroque) is marvellously free of tourists. North of Catania, the traditional resort towns of Acireale, Acicastello and Acitrezza have long been a magnet for local day trips and offer arguably the best Granita to be found anywhere.


Taormina draws more visitors than any other town in Sicily, thanks to its splendid position and its Greek/Roman theatre with a unique view of Mount Etna.

I will be there next week, wanna come along?

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